Visiting Gozo, the Little Malta

Malta is a quick flight from almost anywhere in Europe. Malta is self-contained and self-sufficient and definitely worth a visit of any length. Because I often travel alone, I travel on my own time and usually don't plan my whole schedule. There is nothing worse than being stuck in a schedule. If I

am staying in one general area I’ll book a hotel but nothing beyond that. Sometimes I’ll book just the first few days so I can move around a bit. I want the freedom to wander and enjoy new experiences. Depending on the length of my stay, if I don’t book an hotel for the whole time, I am able to change my plans at the last minute if something interesting comes up. I am also not big on crowds or noise so I choose my hotels with this in mind.

So, back to Malta. Malta is a wonderful island just south of Sicily which is off the 'Toe' of Italy. Malta has several towns - each with their own unique character. But there is also another smaller island only a ferry ride away - Gozo – her sister island. It is still considered part of Malta even though it has it's own name. I chose to stay on this little sister to Malta. Remember, I crave the quieter destinations and Gozo is calmer and slower than Malta.

Flights land on Malta and buses or taxis are available to get to the ferry for Gozo. I took a taxi. It dropped me at the ferry on the Malta side. I walked onto the ferry and caught the local bus on the other side. I gave the address of my hotel to the bus driver and he said he would drive right by it. I asked if he could drop me at the hotel gate and he nodded, saying he could do that. I walked up the driveway. I hate to spend the money on a taxi when a local bus and a bit of a walk will get me there – more money for a good meal or an exciting tour.

Settling into Gozo

My visit to Malta coincided with the low season, and that allowed me to get a room at one of the nicest Hotel Spas that I have ever stayed in -- so I booked the whole week at this place. Hotel Ta' Cenc is right on the edge of the cliffs of Gozo - actually called Ta' Cenc cliffs. The hotel was half booked and not busy. It was a fantastic quiet and relaxing holiday. Well, somewhat quiet - there was a little construction going on because it was low season. But construction did not start too early so my mornings were still lazy and enjoyable. Lucky me!

The amenities were wonderful and the staff so friendly and helpful. My room had a small veranda with a slatted roof over it and plants growing around it, making it very private. The resort offered a free shuttle into the closest town and Ta' Cenc Spa and Hotel also has a beach of its own with a free shuttle ride from the hotel. I took advantage of their amenities. I had massages and facials and the therapists were great. There is a hot tub and a sauna in the pool area. I swam every day in the heated indoor pool which had an outdoor grotto—with heated water. As I swam my movements made the mists over the water swirl and twist making eerie shapes. Lights around the grotto allowed me to see the rocky edge and added to the air of mystery. Sounds bounced across the water, slightly distorted by the heavy cold air pushing down on the warmer air over the water. One evening I was swimming and almost screamed as I saw a misty shadow morph into another person in the pool. That took a year off my life, I’m sure.

The food was amazing – homey yet elegant. The main building had a cozy lounge, with well-stuffed sofas and arm chairs. I took this holiday to get some writing done, and I definitely took advantage of the comfy chairs with tea served anytime. I wrote in the morning, and then took the

shuttle into town so I could catch the local bus or book a tour. Sannat is the village which has several places called Ta’ Cenc in it. The next small town on the bus route is Xewkija. It had a central square with large buildings around it. It reminded me of the small villages I have seen through the valleys in Colombia. In the evenings, after my wanderings had ceased and it was colder outside, I did more writing on my novel sitting in the warm lounge area.

Ta’ Cenc Hotel and Spa is set right at the edge of the cliff (Ta’ Cenc cliff). I walked through a gate at the end of the property, to a long flat area that is the top of the cliffs. You don’t realize until you get near the edge that the Mediterranean is crashing far below you. In the Spring-time chill the cold winds whistle through the rocks and gust over the cliffs. Early morning walks showed the rocks and plants glazed with frost.

Things to do, Places to go

As usual, I took my first day to get my bearings. I took the 'Hop on, Hop off' bus that left from the ferry dock. This is a relaxing way to see the highlights in the area and decide which ones merit another visit. Gozo is not very big so I had more than enough time to stop and site-see on that first day. I disembarked at some sites, looked around and then caught the next 'Hop on Hop off' bus at the marked stop.

The Azure Window

I disembarked at the Azure Window, an arch of rock that allows you to see the blue Mediterranean through it. I hiked to the water where you could see shells embedded in the rocks along the shore. There were also bones embedded in the stone beside them. You could take a boat tour through the arch to get a different view of the opening, but I think it is just as beautiful from the land side.

The arch is a very popular spot for photos. Every tour stops here. But, it has become fragile - thin and crumbling. The authorities were trying to protect the arch as it is basically sandstone and the rock had already eroded leaving the arch. Apparently, I was lucky to see the Azure Window on Gozo because it collapsed in heavy storm surges shortly after I visited it. It was believed to be over 187 years old when the waves consumed it. There is another less known arch that might become popular now just up the beach.

Controversy has surrounded the Azure Window in recent years because of actions that were damaging the environment which possibly led to the final weakening of the arch’s foundation. Illegal explosives were used to widen a channel nearby. Tourists climbed the arch and jumped off into the water. Their actions dislodged rocks as they climbed as well as when they jumped. Several movies used this setting – The Odyssey and even the wedding scene on Game of Thrones. I wish everyone could see the arch. It was beautiful and showed how the forces of nature do indeed sculpt the land.

Island Crafts

At the parking lot of the Arch area lies an historic church. Next to it is a store that sells hand-blown glass and pottery. Gozo is full of small craft outlets. Artisans thrive here…blown glass, pottery, artistic metal work, lace work, paintings and more.

Gozo, and I presume Malta as well, has glass 'factories' that you can visit and purchase blown glass. I love hand-made glass - the bubbles and imperfections make every piece unique. I have glass products from several countries, so of course had to find some from Gozo as well. There was a store right at the Azure Window but because there were many glass works around, I waited to find the perfect piece.

One of the bus stops on the ‘Hop on, Hop off’ route was at a craft center with pottery, metal crafts, glass work, quilting and sewing crafts as well as some art. Show me someplace with these kinds of hand-made products and I start drooling - well almost! I am always intrigued at how people can be so talented and create such interesting and beautiful objects.

One Megalithic Temple

The second day, I went to the little town I saw from the bus to visit the Megalithic Temple called Santa Verna. The Maltese archipelago is extremely old. It dates back to 5000 B.C. with remains and ruins dating from at least 3600 B.C. As a result, there are museums and ruins all over. The island is full of the beautiful gold coloured rocks used in buildings. The ancient villages glow with these rocks. At sunset all the buildings and ruins glow even more, like they are hoarding the warmth of the sun as it disappears. It's a very beautiful site.

There are a few temples on Gozo and with my lack of historical knowledge, I have trouble even

seeing the rooms and walls. It is advised to take a tour or get a guide for them, if you want to learn more. You can see grooves and pits where they ground grain and turned logs... it's intriguing to

imagine life so long ago.

After the temple, I wandered the village, took the local bus to a bigger village and enjoyed a delicious rabbit stew in a small restaurant overlooking the narrow street. I discovered it wasn't just the hotel's food that was delicious. Maltese food is wonderful.

Wandering the Ta' Cenc Cliffs

Because of the location of my hotel, I walked daily along the high cliff. A variety of flowers and herbs grow on the rocks with almost no soil. Their beauty even brighter in the stark environment. Even here there are signs of ancient inhabitants.

The age-old mud was petrified to stone and evident in this petrified mud are ruts from wagon wheels. These ancient cart ruts are believed to be evidence of the type of wooden cart used long

ago. The ruts were worn into the hard land and mud for years that became petrified. The ruts crisscross the area even though I could not see many of them. I could only identify a few sections because the flowers and vines were not covering those.

In the same field, you can see rubble from old buildings and boundary walls. This area along the top of the cliff is well known for its stone walls

and ancient cart ruts. You can see remnants of walls carved from the golden rocks of Malta as you wander the area. Small huts are still clearly seen, some with crumbled rafters. Others are barely evident among the sprawling plant cover. Looking back over the island from the cliff is a beautiful sight. The church towers and stone buildings, built from that same golden stone, can be seen beyond the piled ruins of the ancients who once lived on the cliff.

This area is intriguing. Thinking about living there hundreds of years before in the small huts is thought provoking. What would it have been like to live high above the Mediterranean Sea, farming the land with simple tools, enduring crazy winds with no mercy? Their lives dependent on produce from the land and struggling to make their homes weather proof. Walking the fields of Gozo makes you think about these things. What would they think of our monstrous buildings where people crowd together?

The 'Hop on, Hop off' bus tour gives a little of this history – you receive ear buds to listen to a summary of each site or even general history as you drive between the towns. It is a great overview, but it just wets your appetite for more.

Remember, Gozo is the little sister. It’s small. There are walking trails throughout the island. If you enjoy hiking you can cover the whole island easily. An elderly British couple staying at the hotel explained that they come every year in low season and hike the island. Even after several years they still find new treasures. Tour guides will say you can see the whole island of Malta in four days. It is said that you can walk around the island in a day. Hmm!! Yet, this couple enjoys it year after year. As you drive, or walk, around Gozo you see wind mills - working and wrecked ones. There is an old aqueduct running across the land just on the road from the ferry dock.

The Citadella

The capital of Gozo is Victoria. It is in the centre of the island and was a fortified village but is believed to have been an Acropolis which became a castle during Medieval times. The walled town is now called the Citadella or the Castello. Evidence shows that the Ottomans destroyed part of the fortification which was rebuilt but not to everyone's satisfaction. You can visit the Citadel and wander the streets - or alleys. The streets wind and turn, with fancy lights and old walls everywhere.

The Citadella exhibits a variety of architectural styles, from medieval to baroque. The houses are older styles with fancy arches and carved sculptures along the buildings. The alleys are narrow and full of steps. In the centre are high ramparts with cannons posted around the wall. You can see the whole town from this spot. Looking down on the town the alleys and stairs snake all over, looking like a maze that could get you seriously lost. But there are signs and there are stores throughout the area that you can step into for help if you need it. The centre area also has a museum or two that give a good overview of the history. Now there is an app you can get on your phone that will give you a tour as you go.

Parts of Malta are very old. Coming from North America, I am not used to such old things. We are lucky to have anything 200 years old and here you can see things 1000's of years old. It is definitely eye-opening.

Big Sister Malta

But just a ferry ride away is the big sister – Malta. What's in Malta? It's so close and is full of people but I did want to see what it was all about. I took the ferry across to Malta and joined a tour from the ferry dock. I visited Mdina, an ancient walled city in the middle of the island. It reminded me of the Citadella in Gozo. Mdina was the first capital of Malta and is very old. It was fortified and built on the highest spot on the island. When the Knights came to Malta they built Valetta on the coast, which became the capital. As people and businesses left, Mdina became a ghost town and still has only a few hundred people living inside the walls. Because of the desertion of the people it was called the ‘Silent City.’ Some of this history is displayed in the Mdina Cathedral Museum, found almost in the centre of Mdina.

Maltese history contains a lot of activities by the Order of the Knights, said to be connected to the Catholic Church. These knights started as military but became known more for their charitable acts over time. They were hospitallers and dedicated to helping people. In Valetta, the current capital, there are underground chambers that housed beds during various wars, built to house the injured. The Maltese Knights are the ones that took care of the injured. You can tour these tunnels and chambers for a price.

The Maltese cross was associated with the Knights of Malta but has become a cherished symbol to the Maltese. Its design (eight points) was thought to be symbolic of the beliefs of the knights. More recently the same design has taken on more national meaning. The Maltese cross is on the Maltese money, part of the Air Malta livery, on palaces, hospitals and gates. The huge church in Valetta, St. John’s Co-Cathedral, has the Maltese cross all over – on tiles on the floor, stained glass, carved in wood and more. The Maltese Cross is also an emblem on many tourist objects. In fact I bought a pendant of the Maltese Cross. The magnificence of the Cathedral is a must see. I have travelled a lot in Europe and visited

all sorts of churches but this church was such a mix of symbols, from skulls to the story of Saint John. It is huge and the outside is deceptive. It looks plain and normal outside but is marvelous inside. Valetta is a pretty town. It is on a hill on the coast. Some streets are small and many houses in the downtown area have these little verandas or porches. They hang out over the streets a little and

reminded me of some I saw in Venice. You can see some are painted wood, some are plastered. There is one street in Valetta with many different coloured porches. It is worth a visit just because of its originality.

Malta has survived many different rulers – changing countries over the centuries. One of the first take-overs of note were by the Knights. Malta’s location is strategic and was continually fought over because of this. Never-the-less, the people of Malta and Gozo have been able to maintain their unique characteristics and stay true to Malta. Malta became independent in 1964. Yea for Malta!

Festivals

One last note is in regards to some of the celebrations that occur on Malta. You can check the tourist guide for the dates. I just happened to be there for Carnival. And, wouldn’t you know it?

Gozo is known as having strange or ghoulish celebrations at this time. I didn’t even know the parade was on but went into Victoria, the capital of Gozo, for dinner and there were amazing floats filling the small roads. The colours and details were dynamic and workmanship was obvious. But the floats! They were better than many I’ve seen, even in the Santa Claus parade or the Rose Bowl. The quality was unbelievable. Check out my photos and see if you agree.

There were groups of dancers in fancy costumes – several colors and themes were evident. There were dancing flames and evil red rams. Golden feathers and weird skulls with lace and feathers. It was colourful and the whole village was abuzz. I was glad I happened upon it since it is so unique.

A central park or courtyard, had a competition – it was either for the costumes or for dancers, I am still not sure which. Judges sat at the top end of the square at a long table and each contestant went around the ring. Many of the contestants were children. The costumes were quite well done. Several girls had old fashioned Victorian gowns with hoops under them holding them out like bells. They flounced their way around the square. Then there were jugglers and clowns. I wish I had been able to understand the language to get a better feeling of what it was all about. But, once again, the people were friendly and helpful and everyone was enjoying themselves.

The macabre or ghoulish celebrations are known to happen in Nadur on Gozo. Another small town. I was told that teens come from Malta to celebrate there. I’m kind of glad I saw the beautiful costumes and amazing floats in Victoria and not the macabre events in Nadur.